The spring should come out with the plug, use the magnet to remove the ball. Using the roll pin punch, tap out the roll pin (it is actually a spiral pin) and let it fall into the case.Ĥ. Loosen the 3/4″ hex plug near the soft plug you just tapped out and move the shift rail so you can see a roll pin on the shift rail inside the t-case. Using the punch tap out the small soft plug and let it fall into the case. For this mod there is no reason to pick on the other one. There are two shift rails, we are picking on the one nearest the input/rear output. Remove PTO cover on the bottom of the transfer case by removing the six 3/8″ cap screws (with the 9/16″ socket/wrench) You will get more oil out of it, prepare yourself.ģ. These things are heavy (I have read 130lbs dry) so be careful you don’t let it fall. Drain oil and remove transfer case from vehicle. Not required but a magnetic tray is really niceġ. Enough blocks to get get the t-case to sit level with the input pointed up. Something to measure with (machinist ruler worked great for me)

9/16 socket/ratchet or combination wrench This makes for better maneuverability especially if you have locked axles so you can switch to 2wd but keep power to the front wheels for more traction (most trucks are heavier in the front) When done correctly you retain the interlock that prevents mixing up the ranges (putting the front in high and the rear in low for example) which would cause catastrophic transfer case damage.

Like having the rear in neutral and the front in low. This mod allows you to operate power to the front axle independently from the rear. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger forums. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. Disclaimer: The Ranger, The Ranger Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle.

Ford ranger stick console mod